Makalu Expedition, Nepal(8485m)

Guided Climb on the World’s 5th Highest Peak.

Expedition Overview

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions to Makalu in the Nepalese Himalaya.

We don’t advertise an expedition price and then ask for additional payments at the conclusion of the expedition such as Sherpa summit bonus and kitchen staff gratuities as some of the other operators do. The price you pay the Junkies is the final price.

This expedition is offered with a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. There is no western leader from Altitude Junkies Inc. present on the expedition.

The Makalu Expedition (8,485 m) is a serious and technically demanding 8,000-meter adventure for experienced high-altitude climbers. Located in the remote eastern Himalayas of Nepal, Makalu combines steep snow and ice, exposed ridges, and challenging high-altitude climbing with a remote and less-crowded expedition environment. Our approach focuses on strong acclimatization, experienced Sherpa support, careful route management, and safety-first decision-making, giving climbers the opportunity to pursue the summit while respecting the realities of the mountain.

Leadership

A seasoned veteran Sherpa with multiple summits will assist a climber during this expedition.

Helicopters

We utilize helicopters from Kathmandu lukla and from pangboche to Makalu higher base camp and at the conclusion of the expedition we will take helicopter flights from Base camp back to Kathmandu.

The Trek to Base Camp

After arriving in Namche by helicopter, we begin our nine-day trek toward Everest Base Camp and back to Pangboche, combining gradual acclimatization with a scenic journey through the Khumbu. Along the route, we stay in carefully selected teahouse lodges, while our experienced Sherpa team oversees food preparation and ensures the necessary standards are maintained. From Pangboche, we fly directly by helicopter toward Makalu, continuing the expedition into the remote eastern Himalayas.

Base Camp

Our base camp is as luxurious, if not more so than some of the other more expensive operators and the food prepared by our highly experienced cooks is considered some of the best available in the Himalayas.

Each climber is provided with a personal Mountain Hardwear 3-person tent at base camp/box tents, which is insulated with a foam floor covering and complimented with an extra thick foam mattress.

For group occasions we provide double walled tents for dining and another as our communication tent. The dining tent has large padded chairs and is spacious, carpeted, heated and lit by solar electricity. Our recreation tent has the same facilities as our dining tent.

We provide a carpeted and solar-lit toilet and shower tent with toilets, stainless steel wash sinks and hot water heated showers. We make it a policy at Altitude Junkies to remove all human waste from base camp and camp two respectively and have porters carry our toilet drums to a lower village where it can be disposed of properly.

Climb Strategy

We use the classic Northwest Face/West Pillar route on Makalu. Our expedition strategy is built around gradual acclimatization, establishing the higher camps efficiently, and allowing sufficient time for weather and route conditions before committing to the summit push.

The Route

Base Camp (4,870 m): Our main acclimatization and logistics hub, where we prepare for the climbing phase.

Camp 1 (6,150 m): Established above the lower glacier section, providing the first high-altitude camp.

Camp 2 (6,700 m): Located higher on the route as we progress toward the Makalu La.

Camp 3 (7,400 m): Positioned near the Makalu La and used as an important staging point for the upper mountain.

Camp 4 (7,800 m): Our high camp and launch point for the summit attempt.

Summit Day (8,485 m): An early start takes us through steep snow and ice terrain toward the summit ridge and the final exposed section leading to the summit of Makalu.

High Altitude Camps

3-person tents will be used at high camps and these will be occupied by two persons. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be in place and members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

Itinerary

Expedition Gear

Insurance

Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue

Cost Includes

• Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
• All transportation in Nepal as itinerary
• Helicopter flight as per itinerary
• Porters for 30kg personal gear to base camp and return
• All meals during trek and expedition (B/L/D) with tea/coffee 
• All meals at base camp
• Personal Nepal climbing Sherpa with all expenses (Sherpa’s)
• Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
• Liaison Officer expenses, rope fixing,
• Garbage Deposit
• High camp with tents, gas burner, cooking kit, ropes, ice screws & high- altitude food 
• Oxygen(4:2 ratio) and Perosnal Summit Mask
• Walkie-talkies (BC to high camp) & emergency 
• Backup oxygen & regulator set available at base camp (chargeable if used) 

Cost Excludes

• International airfare. 
• Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
• Nepal entry visa fee (45 days). 
• Drone or special filming permits.
• Alcoholic beverages in Kathmandu
• Bottled beverages, showers and snack food on trek
• Nepal visa costs
• Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
• Personal climbing clothing and equipment
• Personal Puja contribution
• Any services not mentioned under “Cost Includes.” 

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.