Kyajo Ri Expedition, Nepal – 6,186m

Expedition Overview

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions to Kyajo-ri in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya.

We don’t advertise an expedition price and then ask for additional payments at the conclusion of the expedition such as Sherpa summit bonus and kitchen staff gratuities as some of the other operators do. The price you pay the Junkies is the final price.

This expedition is offered with a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. There is no western leader from Altitude Junkies Inc. present on the expedition.

Kyajo Ri is a technical alpine climb that demands greater mountaineering skills than the standard trekking peaks in Nepal. Unlike the more crowded routes on Ama Dablam, Kyajo Ri offers a remote and quieter climbing experience with very few teams on the mountain. The route involves steep snow, ice, mixed terrain, and sections of exposed rock, requiring proficiency in crampon techniques, fixed-rope ascension, and efficient movement on technical ground. Due to its varied terrain and alpine nature, Kyajo Ri is best suited to experienced climbers seeking a challenging Himalayan ascent away from the crowds.

Leadership

A seasoned veteran Sherpa with multiple summits on many 8k/7k/6k will assist a climber during this expedition.

Helicopters

We utilize helicopters from Kathmandu flying to Lukla. The Lukla fixed-wing flights are very weather dependent and we believe helicopters are a safer option. At the conclusion of the expedition we will take helicopter flights from Base camp back to Kathmandu.

The Trek to Base Camp

After arriving at Lukla by helicopter we will start the six days trek to base camp. Each evening we will stay in the best teahouse lodges on route and our Sherpa staff will supervise all food preparation in the lodge kitchens. We will take cautious acclimatization rest days at Namche Bazar.

Base Camp

Our Base Camp is a simple, private campsite built the Altitude Junkies way functional, comfortable, and focused on the essentials rather than luxury. Each climber is provided with a personal tent and sleeping mattress, while the camp includes a dedicated kitchen, dining tent, toilet tent, and solar power for charging small electronic devices. Our Base Camp team prepares three freshly cooked hot meals each day, along with hot drinks and unlimited boiled drinking water, creating a comfortable environment for rest, recovery, and acclimatization before heading higher on the mountain.

Climb Strategy

Our Kyajo Ri climbing strategy focuses on gradual acclimatization, careful route management, and maximizing summit success while maintaining the highest safety standards. After establishing Base Camp, climbers spend several days acclimatizing with rotations to higher camps, allowing the body to adapt to altitude before the summit push. Summit day begins well before dawn, following fixed ropes across steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain to reach the exposed summit ridge. Throughout the expedition, our experienced climbing Sherpas continuously assess weather conditions, route safety, and each climber’s condition, ensuring that every decision prioritizes safety, teamwork, and a successful return.

The Route

• The ascent of Kyajo Ri (6,186m / 20,295 ft) starts from Namche Bazaar, taking a quiet trail through Mende and into the remote Kyajo Drangka valley. After several days of trekking and adjusting to the altitude, climbers set up Base Camp at 4,550m (14,928 ft) on a grassy area below the mountain, surrounded by stunning glacier views.
• From Base Camp, the route becomes more challenging. The first climbing day involves a steep hike over rocky and loose terrain to HIGH CAMP at 5,200m (17,060 ft). After resting there overnight, climbers continue to CAMP I at 5,700m (18,701 ft), climbing through snow and ice. This camp is just below the summit ridge and is often small and exposed, with tents set up on snow platforms.
• Summit day starts very early, between midnight. Climbers ascend steep snow and ice slopes, using fixed ropes where needed. The climb follows the east ridge, with a mix of snow, ice, and rock sections. The final part is a narrow snow ridge, which leads directly to the summit of Kyajo Ri.
• The descent follows the same route back to Camp I and then to Base Camp, usually taking 4 to 5 hours.

High Altitude Camps

3-person tents will be used at high camps and these will be occupied by two persons. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be in place and members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

Expedition Itinerary

Expedition Gear

Insurance

Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue

Cost Includes

• Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
• All transportation in Nepal as itinerary
• Porters for 30kg personal gear to base camp and return
• All meals at base camp
• Personal Nepal climbing Sherpa
• Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
• Private camping service through out the trip( 2 pax above)
• Garbage Deposit
• High camp tents
• 1:1 climbing guide with all his expenses(Salary, Gear allowance,Insurance,Flight ,food and accomodation)
• Helicopter flight- KTM – Lukla & Base camp – Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

• Airfare to and from Nepal
• Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages in Kathmandu
• Bottled beverages, showers and snack food on trek
• Nepal visa costs
• Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
• Personal climbing clothing and equipment
• Personal Puja contribution
• Summit Bonus and Tipping

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our Guided Expeditions.