Pisco Yanapacha, Peru

Expedition Overview

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions to Ama Dablam in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya.

We don’t advertise an expedition price and then ask for additional payments at the conclusion of the expedition such as Sherpa summit bonus and kitchen staff gratuities as some of the other operators do. The price you pay the Junkies is the final price.

This expedition is offered with a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. There is no western leader from Altitude Junkies Inc. present on the expedition.

Ama Dablam is comparable in technical difficulty to Cholatse, but there are many teams present. 
Unlike Cholatse, Ama Dablam is climbed prominently on rock with snow and ice above camp two only.

Leadership

A seasoned AmaDablam veteran Sherpa with multiple summits will assist a climber during this expedition.

Helicopters

We utilize helicopters from Kathmandu flying to Lukla. The Lukla fixed-wing flights are very weather dependent and we believe helicopters are a safer option. At the conclusion of the expedition we will take helicopter flights from Lukla back to Kathmandu.

The Trek to Base Camp

After arriving at Lukla by helicopter we will start the five day trek to base camp. Each evening we will stay in the best teahouse lodges on route and our Sherpa staff will supervise all food preparation in the lodge kitchens. We will take cautious acclimatization rest days at Namche Bazar.

Base Camp

Our base camp will be one of the teahouse lodges at Ama Dablam base camp. The lodge will prpovide three hot meals and provide drinks and boiled water.

Climb Strategy

Ama Dablam is a technical peak and the route will have fixed ropes in place where necessary for the safety of all the climbers and Sherpa staff. We have allocated 10 days at base camp and above to allow ample time for additional rope fixing as well as contingency days in case we experience bad weather.

The Route

• From Base Camp to Yak Camp we hike along a moraine ridge with amazing views of the mountain and route.  Eventually we join the beginning of the Southwest Ridge, at this point a large plateau, and follow it for thirty minutes to our Yak campsite.
  
  
• The climb from Yak Camp heads up the Southwest Ridge where it turns from a plateau to a knife-edge. The climb begins on a trail but enters a large talus field and we climb over granite boulders. The final 200 meters are climbed using fixed lines up a steep rock slab where camp one sits on rock platforms at the top of this slab.
  
  
• From Camp One we start the technical climbing using fixed ropes with short sections of up to 5.8 climbing. The crux pitch of the entire route is found here with the Yellow Tower en route to our Camp two located at 5,900 meters.
  
  
• The climb from Camp Two is mostly ice and mixed climbing, including the steep Grey Tower. We cross Mushroom Ridge, a series of cornices and ice sculptures, just before reaching the now redundant Camp 2.7. The rest of the summit day is technically easier than anything we have climbed up until now. The route involves snow and ice up to 50 degrees, climbed using the safety of the fixed ropes in place.

High Altitude Camps

3-person tents will be used at high camps and these will be occupied by two persons. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be in place and members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

Expedition Itinerary

Expedition Gear

Insurance

Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue

The expedition cost includes

• Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
  
  
• All transportation in Nepal as itinerary
  
  
• Porters for 30kg personal gear to base camp and return
  
  
• All meals at base camp
  
  
• Personal Nepal climbing Sherpa
  
  
• Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
  
  
• Liaison Officer expenses
  
  
• Garbage Deposit
  
  
• High camp tents
  
  
• Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
  
  
• Kathmandu to Lukla round trip helicopter flight
  
  

The expedition cost does not include

• Airfare to and from Nepal
  
  
• Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
  
  
• Alcoholic beverages in Kathmandu
  
  
• Bottled beverages, showers and snack food on trek
  
  
• Nepal visa costs
  
  
• Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
  
  
• Personal climbing clothing and equipment
  
  
• Personal Puja contribution

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.