Makalu Expedition-8485 M

Expedition Overview

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions to Ama Dablam in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya.

We don’t advertise an expedition price and then ask for additional payments at the conclusion of the expedition such as Sherpa summit bonus and kitchen staff gratuities as some of the other operators do. The price you pay the Junkies is the final price.

This expedition is offered with a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. There is no western leader from Altitude Junkies present on the expedition.

Our expedition is limited to eight climbers and one expedition leader with a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. Some of the other operators have as many as thirty climbers on one expedition and we feel a smaller team makes for a more intimate and satisfying experience for a climber on Dhaulagiri.

The single leader/expedition manager offers similar expertise as a fully guided climb with a 4:1 climber to guide ratio. Having a 1:1 climbing Sherpa to climber ratio allows each climber a flexible schedule to travel with their own personal Sherpa during acclimatization rotations. Having a personal Sherpa to climb with each member means that climbers are assisted with the carrying of their personal loads if required, therefore reducing their pack weight considerably.

Leadership

Himalayan veteran expedition organizer Phil Crampton who has multiple summits on Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks will lead the 2026 expedition.
In addition to an experienced leader, the teams head climbing Sherpa Sirdar will be Pasang Nima Sherpa. Pasang has vast experience being a Sirdar on Everest, Lhotse, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu and will be directing our climbing Sherpas who have all summited Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks before, some multiple times.

Helicopter Trek to Base camp

Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu where we will stay in the beautiful Hotel Tibet located in a quiet area of the diplomat district of Lazimpat.
After a day in Kathmandu getting to know our fellow team members we fly to Pokhara where we may spend the evening. If the weather is good it may be possible to fly the same day by helicopter to Italian Base Camp where will spend two evenings for acclimatization. We then make the 4-5 hour walk to base camp proper. At the conclusion of the expedition we take a helicopter from base camp to Pokhara where we will board a fixed wing flight to take us back to Kathmandu.

Base Camp

Our base camp is as luxurious, if not more so than some of the other more expensive operators and the food prepared by our highly experienced cooks is considered some of the best available in the Himalayas.
Each climber is provided with a personal Black Diamond 3-person tent at base camp, which is insulated with a foam floor covering and complimented with an extra thick foam mattress.
For group occasions we provide double walled tents for dining. The dining tent has large padded chairs and is spacious, carpeted, heated and lit by solar electricity.
We provide a carpeted and solar-lit toilet and shower tent with toilets, stainless steel wash sinks and hot water heated showers. We make it a policy at Altitude Junkies to remove all human waste from base camp and have porters carry our toilet drums to a lower village where it can be disposed of properly.

Climb Strategy

We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp spending two to four nights there before taking our first trip onto the glacier. We plan only to climb on the glacier a maximum of three or four times and this includes the summit push. Our schedule usually sees us make our first climb from base camp to camp one to drop off loads and then returning to base camp the same day.
After more acclimatization and the progress of the fixed ropes being placed up to camp two, we climb to camp one, spending the evening and then explore the route to camp two, spending the evening if possible before returning to base camp the following day. We continue our acclimatization schedule with another night at camp one and camp two before tagging camp three or sleeping there if conditions allow, then descending to base camp.
The summit push will see us make our final climb on the glacier and climb to camp one, two, and three respectively before leaving for the summit from the high camp in early hours of the morning.

The Route

From base camp to camp one the route crosses the glacier towards the base of the North Face, which is referred to as “The Eiger”, and below the Dhaulagiri Icefall. The route avoids the steepest part of the icefall by following a steep gully. From the top of the gully, we cross a few avalanche cones to arrive on a plateau and gentler slopes, which then lead to the col.

Camp one sits on this broad col at 5,900 meters. From this camp the route begins to follow the Northeast Spur. The spur is broad and climbed at a reasonably gentle angle to start with and becomes steeper as height is gained.

Camp two is situated on the eastern aspect of the spur at 6,400 meters. The spur above camp two is steeper than the climb to camp two with a few sections up to 45 degrees in angle where it leads us to camp three at 7,400 meters.

Summit day will start late evening or early morning depending on the conditions with climbing on steeper mixed steps which lead to a traverse across a broad, exposed gully. The start of the traverse continues to be rocky and narrow, but widens out into a big gully. On the far side of this gully, the top of a giant hanging serac is gained. From here the angle eases and the next 400 meters is up relatively gentle slopes, following a line just to the right hand side of the ridge. This leads on to 25 degree slopes heading towards the summit rock band. Splitting the rock band is a narrow, 45 degree, 100 meter high couloir, which leads to the summit plateau. Once on the plateau, a short climb to the left over a few steps leads to the summit of Dhaulagiri.

High Altitude Camps

3-person tents will be used at high camps and these will be occupied by two persons. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be in place and members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

Expedition Itinerary

Expedition Gear

Insurance

Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue

The expedition cost includes

• Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
• All transportation in Nepal as itinerary
• Porters for 30kg personal gear to base camp and return
• All meals at base camp
• Personal Nepal climbing Sherpa
• Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
• Liaison Officer expenses
• Garbage Deposit
• High camp tents
• Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
• Kathmandu to Lukla round trip helicopter flight

The expedition cost does not include

• Airfare to and from Nepal
• Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages in Kathmandu
• Bottled beverages, showers and snack food on trek
• Nepal visa costs
• Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
• Personal climbing clothing and equipment
• Personal Puja contribution

Altitude Junkies (P) Ltd. does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.